Wednesday, May 21, 2014

May 21st-Fonfria to Sarria

We all have those days when things do not go as you would have hoped, Mine was today, I got up 15 minutes later than normal, I was awake but did not see the point in starting really early as there was a steep downhill section and i wanted to face it in good light, I set off after some coffee and delicious Santiago cake and the obligatory ibuprofen's, It was raining so i donned the waterproof trousers and jacket, It's been weeks since i have had to wear both, I have no problem walking in bad weather, The scenery was just as beautiful and more wild and rugged with the dark clouds skimming the hills, I walked the Camino and again others walked the road, I came to a junction where the Camino crossed the road, There was a track and i went down it, I walked down a very steep trail for some time, Maybe a mile and then it went down very very steeply, I was not surprised and continued on, Then the trail stopped as an electric fence crossed the trail, WTF i thought, I carefully crossed the fence but soon there was another one, I looked back at where i had come and sighed as the though of going back up did not bode well, I slowly made my way up until i came to another farm track leading to the left, I could see some houses so followed it, There were no yellow arrow Camino signs, At the end of the track was a small village but on looking around it was another ghost town, I had been to the bar on the main road but it looked deserted, i walked up and down and tried to get my bearings, My mins said to go down but what if it was the wrong direction, I then went back past the bar and there was a car there that wasnt there before, I banged on 2 doors then a shout came out of one of the windows above, No point in asking if he spoke English, I pointed at myself and said 'peregrino' and said 'Camino De Santiago' He pointed down the hill, I said thank you and set off, I could see a couple of houses in the distance so thought i could ask there as well, I walked for maybe 3 miles with nothing, The distant houses now in a dip, I thought that this was crazy, Only thing to do was to stop a passing car and again ask, Instantly they said i was going in the right direction and shortly after i could see a Camino sign as well as a bar, I walked into the bar and there was a guy i had spoken to the night before and an English woman just starting her Camino, I never more pleased to see anybody, I had another coffee and a delicious rice pudding, I rejoined the Camino, I was probably an hour late, The walk was nice, rolling green countryside, The rain came and went and sometimes it was very windy, The Camino split where you could go to a church/monastery or go towards Sarria, I chose the latter, What i did not do was check my guide, I had chosen the hilly route and boy was it hilly and very steep, I cursed myself, The last 2 days had made my legs very tired and i could have done without this, Later on i was to find out that i had made the right choice as the Church was only open for a tour and viewing was limited, The wind was so strong in places that i could not use my walking poles as they were being blown around as was i with the backpack acting like a sail, I went to zip my pockets up on my Eddie Bauer jacket to stop the rain getting in only to find that one of the zips had failed, I could not believe it as i had worn it less that 15 times and it had sat in the backpack for the last few weeks as it had been warm, In a bar i played around with the zip, I now have it back together but it will need to be glued at the bottom to stop it opening from the bottom up, I have a few items that have failed me on this trip and will do a run down on what to take and what not to when i get home, The rest of the walk was pretty much the same, Small quaint villages that looked extremely old, Slate roofs, Very rustic

Where i eat last night-Fantastic food

 The rather eccentric owner, The pot actually had burning alcohol in it, To ward off any doubts you have of finishing the Camino
 Huge and ancient Chestnut tree
 The pics dont show it but this is a steep climb, Ferns cover the sides
 Rolling hills and rain in the distance
 Another steep and slippery descent
So i am now in Sarria, This is where most people start their Camino as you need to walk 100km to get your compostella and Sarria is the closest to that distance, Many pilgrims do not enjoy the journey as much from here as you loose the quietness of the recent weeks as hundreds start here each day, We will see, Either way it will only be 4 days until i am in Santiago, Lets hope the weather is a little kinder

Dave

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